How many cameras
do I need?
It isn't decided by square metres, it is decided by critical points: entrances, the till and anything worth money. A house usually needs 2 or 3; a small shop, 3 or 4. Here is the method to count them yourself, and how to work out the storage you will need.
By Ismael Vázquez, founder and technician · Published 26 July 2026
Count points, not square metres
The question we get on the phone is almost always asked the wrong way round.
How people ask it
«I have premises of 80 square metres, how many cameras do I need?» Square metres tell you nothing: an open-plan 80 m² space can be covered with fewer cameras than a 60 m² flat with a corridor and three bedrooms. What matters is how many different places need to be seen, not how much floor area there is.
How it is better asked
«Which places in my premises do I need to be able to see afterwards?» That question does have an answer, and a short one: the entrances, where the money is, and where anything worth money is. Each of those is a critical point, and every critical point you can't cover with a shared frame is a camera.
How to count your critical points
Five minutes with a floor plan, or a walk round the premises with your phone. You don't need to know anything about cameras to do it.
Mark every entrance
Doors, gates, windows reachable from the street or a courtyard, and the emergency exit. Every point through which someone can get in without breaking anything is a critical point, and it is usually the most valuable of all: a front-on image of someone coming in is worth more than ten of an empty corridor.
Mark where the money is
The till, the card-machine drawer, the table where the takings are counted at closing. Here the framing matters more than the camera: it focuses on the work surface and hands, not the face of whoever is standing there.
Mark what is worth money
The stockroom, the display case with expensive goods, the IT rack, the tools, the parcels area. Anything that would mean filing a report if it went missing.
Group the ones that share a view
Now group them: two points that can be seen from the same spot and in the same direction are one camera. Two points that need you to look in different directions are two, even if they are three metres apart. This is where the count really comes down.
Check the blind spots
Put yourself in each imaginary camera's position and ask what is left out. If the answer includes an entrance or the till, move the camera before adding another. It is almost always solved by switching corners, not buying more.
Count the result
The groups you are left with are the cameras you need. If the number has come out high, repeat step four: the first pass almost always overestimates.
What each kind of place usually needs
Figures from what we typically see in the Vallès, so you know if your count is out of range. They aren't a fixed recommendation: your floor plan decides.
| Place | Typical | The points that almost always come up |
|---|---|---|
| Flat | 1–2 | Front door and, if there is one, an accessible terrace or patio |
| Detached house | 2–4 | Entrance, garage or gate, back of the house, garden |
| Small shop | 3–4 | Door, till, back room, aisle with valuable goods |
| Large or through shop | 5–8 | All of the above plus each change in line of sight along the aisles |
| Office | 2–4 | Entrance, reception, rack or server room |
| Warehouse or workshop | 4–8 | Main door, loading bay, perimeter, tool area |
Four decisions that matter more than the number
Once the number is clear, this is what really determines whether the installation will still serve you in two years' time.
Recorder channels, with room to spare
The recorder has a fixed number of channels and can't be expanded. If you have counted four cameras, buy an eight-channel one. The price difference at installation is small; replacing the whole recorder a year later to add one camera isn't.
Cable wherever possible
With PoE the camera gets data and power over the same cable and doesn't depend on Wi-Fi coverage. Leave conduit run to the points where you might add a camera later: the real cost of a future camera is the building work, not the camera.
How many days you want to keep
This figure determines the drive, and by law it can't exceed one month. Decide whether a week is enough —sufficient to notice and report almost any incident— or whether your business needs the full month.
What happens in a power cut
A small UPS keeps the recorder and router running during a cut. Without one, the time without power is exactly the time you won't have footage of, and it is no coincidence that many incidents happen just then.
How much space you will need
It is the part almost nobody calculates beforehand, and the one that later forces you to lower recording quality or cut the number of days.
The formula is simple arithmetic. Take each camera's bit rate —it is on the spec sheet, in megabits per second— and multiply:
rate (Mb/s) ÷ 8 × 3,600 × hours per day × days to keep ÷ 1,000 = GB
An example with round numbers, assuming cameras set to 4 Mb/s and continuous recording: each camera generates about 1.8 GB an hour, around 43 GB a day. Four cameras keeping 30 days need roughly 5 TB. That is the most expensive scenario; recording only on motion brings real usage down a lot, but it is worth sizing the drive for a bad week, not a quiet one.
Two details change the result more than the figure itself. First: bit rate isn't resolution. A badly configured 4 MP camera can use more than a well-tuned 8 MP one, and the rate climbs by itself when there is rain, moving leaves or a street lamp flickering at night. Second: if the recorder is going to fill up and overwrite, check beforehand how many days it really lasts with your cameras and settings, not the brochure's.
If you would rather skip the maths, send us the floor plan or a few photos of the premises on WhatsApp and we will tell you how many cameras, where and with how much storage, with no obligation. And if you are first deciding whether a camera or an alarm suits you better, we have that comparison separately in alarm or security camera.
For cameras that will be watching at night, counting them isn't enough: read what to look for in night vision before choosing a model.
What the rules say about number and placement
There is no legal maximum number of cameras, but there are clear limits on where you can put them. These are the ones that affect your count.
Only what is essential
The data minimisation principle requires you to record the minimum necessary for security purposes. In practice: don't put up a camera «just in case» somewhere that isn't a critical point, because its justification is the first thing anyone will ask about.
Not the street
You may cover the minimum strip of public highway needed to watch your own entrance. The whole pavement, the road or the building opposite are off limits for a private individual or a shop.
Staff areas
Work areas can be recorded for security or to monitor activity, provided staff and their legal representatives are informed clearly and explicitly beforehand. In changing rooms, locker areas and toilets, cameras are never allowed, and that removes points from your list however much equipment is kept there.
Sign and records
Every installation needs an information sign at the entrance and a record of processing activities. It doesn't change the number of cameras, but it is what gets checked if someone complains.
What people usually ask
How many cameras do I need for a house?+
A detached house usually needs two or three cameras: the front door, the garden or garage entrance, and one covering the back if it can be reached from outside without climbing a wall. An ordinary flat can be covered with a single camera at the front door, unless it has a terrace or patio with its own access, which adds a second. Adding cameras for a feeling of security doesn't help: if two point at the same stretch of inside corridor that nobody is going to enter from outside, one of them is surplus. The question that really decides the number isn't how many square metres the house has, but how many different points there are through which someone could get in without forcing anything. Count those points first, group the ones that can be seen from the same spot, and the number almost always works itself out below what you imagined before looking at it calmly.
And for a shop?+
Three to four cameras for a small shop: the door, the till framing the hands rather than the customer's face, the stockroom or back room, and the aisle with the most valuable goods. In long, narrow premises or ones with several blind spots, it is worth adding one for each change in line of sight, because a long aisle seen from a single point leaves the ends blurred or out of frame. A common mistake is putting two cameras on the same display area and none on the back room, which is usually where something actually happens, if it happens at all. Before deciding the number, walk round the shop thinking about which three things you would need to prove if something happened one day: who came in, what they took and where they took it from. Those three answers almost always tell you which cameras you need; everything else is optional.
Is one good camera better than two ordinary ones?+
Two ordinary ones, well placed, almost always, and for a simple reason: the usual problem with an installation isn't image quality, it is that the incident happened exactly where no camera was pointing. A single high-end wide-angle camera doesn't replace two covering different angles, because a very wide lens distorts the edges and loses useful detail exactly where it is needed most, in the corners of the frame. Putting your whole budget into one good camera only makes sense when there is a single point that really matters and no budget for more: for example, the till of a very small business with no other genuine critical point. Outside that specific case, spreading coverage across two points almost always beats putting all the quality into one.
How much hard drive space do I need?+
Multiply each camera's bit rate by the hours it records each day and the number of days you want to keep footage. A camera set to 4 Mb/s recording non-stop generates around 43 GB a day, so four cameras keeping a full month need roughly 5 TB. Recording only when there is motion brings real usage down considerably, but it is worth sizing the drive for the worst day of the month, not a quiet one, because a drive that runs out two days before the month ends is useless. Two things push usage up without you noticing: cameras pointing at areas with leaves, rain or lights that flicker at night, which force the sensor to encode more information because of image noise. Always check actual usage with your cameras in place, not with the manufacturer's spec sheet.
How long can I keep the footage?+
One month at most. After that, footage has to be deleted, unless it records a specific incident that is going to be handed to the police or a court, in which case that particular recording is kept, not the whole month's archive. In practice this means the recorder has to be set to overwrite in a loop rather than accumulate indefinitely, which is exactly the opposite of what many people think gives more security. Keeping footage longer than necessary adds no protection, because almost no incident takes weeks to be noticed and reported; what it does add is a retention obligation you have to be able to justify if anyone asks. Decide first whether a week is enough, which covers almost any ordinary incident, or whether your particular business needs the full month, before sizing the drive.
Can I point a camera at the street?+
Only at the minimum strip needed to cover your own entrance, whether that is the door, the gate or the garage entrance. Recording the whole pavement, the road or the front of the house opposite isn't allowed for a private individual or a shop, because the governing principle is that you may only capture what is strictly necessary for your own security, not monitor the public highway in general. In practice it is easy to check: if, when reviewing the frame, you can see more street than you need to know who is at your door, narrow the angle or reposition the camera. This doesn't reduce the camera's real usefulness, because the value lies precisely in that narrow strip in front of your entrance, not in a panoramic view of the whole street.
Do I need indoor cameras if I already have one at the door?+
It depends on what you want to be able to prove afterwards. The door camera tells you someone came in and at what time, but not what they did inside or what they took; only a well-placed indoor camera tells you that. If the premises have goods on display, a till or a stockroom with valuable stock, the indoor camera is the one that provides genuinely useful evidence on the day it is needed, while the door camera serves as confirmation of when they came in. In a home the reasoning barely changes: if there is nothing inside you might need to prove beyond the fact that someone got in, the outdoor camera may be enough. The practical rule is to ask yourself what you would need to show if you had to explain what happened tomorrow, and put the camera where that answer lies.
Can I add more cameras later?+
Yes, as long as the recorder and cabling are sized with that in mind from the first installation. It is the decision people regret most afterwards: a recorder bought with exactly enough channels for today's cameras has to be replaced entirely on the day you want to add just one more, because recorders don't take extra channels once installed. Leaving one or two channels free and an empty conduit run to the points where you might one day want a camera costs very little during the initial installation, and saves a whole job of building work later. The same goes for the drive: if you buy it just big enough for what you record today, adding cameras later means replacing it too. Designing the installation for two or three more cameras than you need right now is the cheapest way to avoid doing the work twice.
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