Where to put the cameras
in a shop
You don't cover the shop: you cover points. The till at hand level, the entrance head-on, the back room and the stockroom. A camera on the ceiling in the middle records ceilings and the tops of heads. And in a changing room or toilet, never.
By Ismael Vázquez, founder and technician · Published 26 August 2026
You cover four spots, not forty metres
The expensive mistake is buying cameras to “see everything” and seeing nothing useful on the day you need it.
Shops get robbed at the till, at the door and on the way to the stockroom. Almost never in the middle of an aisle, which is where cameras most often go because "you can see everything". You see a map. You don't see the hand.
The short list: entrance head-on, till on the hands, back room, loading. Everything else is filler until those four are right.
Where to put them, at the angle that works
Height and direction matter more than the megapixels in the brochure.
Entrance, on the face
Whoever comes in needs to be seen head-on, with the daylight from the street behind the camera if possible. Facing the sun through the door, you get a silhouette. A metre of threshold is enough; the whole pavement isn't needed.
Till, on the counter
Hands, cash drawer, card terminal. Not the ceiling. Not the aisle behind. The cashier mustn't block the shot with their shoulder: the camera goes slightly to one side, not directly above the back of their neck.
Route to the back room and stockroom
The internal door. Stock leaves that way, not through the shop window. One camera on that route does more than two on the aisles.
The blind aisle, only if it really is
A corner that can't be seen from the till. If it can be seen, you don't need a camera "just in case". Every extra camera is another month of footage to safeguard.
Three places that are unnecessary or prohibited
A sign doesn't make an illegal shot legal.
Against the glass in full sun
The footage at five in the afternoon in August identifies no one. If the door faces west, you need to compensate or move the point.
The middle of the ceiling “for coverage”
The tops of heads. It works as a general view, not as evidence. If the budget is tight, that's the camera that goes first.
Four points done well beat eight done so-so
Theft shows up in one well-framed shot, not in a mosaic of nine boxes.
Door head-on, till on the hands, stockroom route. Then the corner that genuinely can't be seen. Wired, with a recorder on site and a sign at each entrance.
If you like, we'll come round, mark the points in the shop whether it's empty or open for business, and tell you which ones you don't need. There's usually at least one. The visit is free.
What people usually ask
How high should the till camera go?+
The till camera goes above the head of whoever is taking payment, facing the counter: hands, cash drawer and card terminal are what matter, not the customer's whole face or the ceiling. Mounted too high, it only catches caps and the tops of heads; too low, the cashier's own body blocks the shot as soon as they lean forward. The range that works for most counters is 2.2 to 2.6 metres, angled towards the work surface and slightly to one side of the cashier, never directly above the back of their neck. It's worth testing it with a real person behind the counter before screwing it in place: what looks fine on the installer's screen while standing may not match what it records at the actual height of a seated or shorter member of staff. That five-minute adjustment saves having to redo the job.
Won't a fisheye camera in the middle cover everything?+
It covers a lot of ground and proves little. A fisheye gives an overview of the shop that tells you where someone moved, but the distortion at its edges rarely lets you identify a face or pin down which hand took which product, which is what you really need the day there's a theft. It makes sense as a complement in the middle of the shop, supporting the fixed-point cameras, never replacing them: the till camera is still needed, framed on the counter, and the entrance camera is still needed, facing whoever comes in. A common mistake is buying a single wide-angle camera in the belief that it replaces three, and discovering on the day of the theft that the image is lovely but useless as evidence. If the budget is tight, fewer well-framed cameras are better than a panoramic view that sees everything and proves nothing.
Do I need to record the street?+
Only the minimum needed to identify whoever comes in: the door and roughly a metre of threshold, not the whole pavement or the pedestrian crossing. A front-of-shop camera that takes in the whole street records neighbours, delivery drivers and cars that have nothing to do with the shop, which besides being unnecessary creates a data protection problem: the more people unconnected with the business the camera captures, the greater the responsibility of whoever installs it. And it's not just an abstract legal issue: a camera pointing at the doorway opposite or a neighbour's window generates real complaints and sometimes a formal complaint that could have been avoided with a simple change of angle. It's enough to tilt the lens downwards and check live what appears in the frame before fixing the bracket.
And the stockroom?+
Yes, and it's usually the most overlooked point. The door connecting the shop to the back room, and the loading bay if there is one, are where stock disappears without any customer or member of staff at the counter seeing it go. Unlike shoplifting, which is usually caught by the till or aisle camera, stockroom shrinkage almost never has witnesses, so one well-placed camera on that specific route does more than two or three spread along the product aisles. You don't need to cover the whole stockroom: the access door and, if there is one, the loading area are enough to know who went in, when and what they came out with. It's also the point at which to review who has a key or access code, because a camera without access control only records the problem; it doesn't prevent it.
Can I put a camera in the changing room “because of thefts”?+
No, without exception, and no sign can fix it. Changing rooms, enclosed fitting rooms and toilets are spaces where privacy is assumed, and they're off limits to any camera, whether it's watching customers or staff. The argument that "this is where the goods get hidden" changes nothing: theft of cash or products is controlled at the till, at the exit and on the shop floor itself, not inside an enclosed space meant for changing clothes. Installing a camera there, even a concealed one or one that's switched off most of the time, exposes the business to a fine and, above all, to losing the trust of customers and staff if it's discovered. If the real problem is theft from the fitting rooms, the solution is to limit the number of items taken in, not to record inside a closed cubicle.
Should the entrance camera face people coming in or going out?+
Facing whoever comes in, whenever possible: it's the only thing that lets you see a face and identify someone later. A camera facing the other way, following someone who has already come in, only catches the back of the head and the clothes of whoever is leaving, which is of little use if someone needs to be recognised for a police report. If the shop only has room or budget for one camera at the door, that camera has to face whoever is arriving, not the inside of the shop. Backlighting is the usual enemy of this shot: if the door opens onto a very bright street, the person coming in can end up as a silhouette and lose all identifying value, so it's worth checking the framing at different times of day before signing it off.
How many cameras does an 80 square metre shop need?+
Square metres aren't the unit that counts, and that's the most common mistake when quoting for an installation. What you need to count are the critical points: the entrance, the till, the route to the stockroom and, if there is one, any aisle out of sight of the till. An 80 square metre shop may need three well-placed cameras if it has a single counter and a small stockroom, or five if it has two entrances and several aisles that block the view. Counting square metres leads to spreading cameras evenly across the space, which is exactly the mistake that produces footage of ceilings and empty aisles instead of hands and faces. The right way to size an installation is to walk the shop pointing out each spot where something can really happen, and put a camera there, and only there.
Can I avoid drilling the ceiling by using Wi-Fi cameras?+
It's almost always better not to frame it that way, because a shop ceiling can usually be cabled without major works: a suspended ceiling, surface trunking or a discreet cable grommet sorts out most premises without pulling anything apart. A Wi-Fi camera avoids the data cable, but it still needs a power supply somewhere, so the saving in work is smaller than it seems: if you have to run power to the camera anyway, running a network cable as well costs little more and gives a more stable picture, with no dropouts and no dependence on the shop's Wi-Fi coverage. Wi-Fi has its place in rented or temporary installations, where works aren't worthwhile because the business may move soon. In a shop that intends to stay, cabling from the outset saves the frustration of a frozen picture on the day you need it most.
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